Just like eating healthy food and taking daily vitamins can contribute to maintaining your health and help maximize your lifespan, providing the correct nutrients to your skin can maximize healthy skin, decrease aging, youthful skin longer, and increase skin appearance. These nutrients, antioxidants, and chemicals can contribute to healthy, vibrant and youthful looking skin. Read what these compounds are and why they are important to your skin care and your skin care products.
Retinyl Palmitate (Vitamin A)
Retinyl palmitate is a type of retinoid that is used in skincare products due to its ability to improve visible signs of aging, hyperpigmentation, and support the treatment of acne.
Retinoids are a class of ingredients that have demonstrated benefits to the appearance of the skin. Retinoids such as retinol or retinyl palmitate are converted to vitamin A or retinoic acid in the body.
Vitamin A or retinoic acid is also used to improve the appearance of the skin. Studies have suggested that vitamin A may help to reduce visible fine lines, pigmentation, blemishes, and may help to improve skin cell turnover. This is why retinoid products are so widely used.
Retinyl palmitate improves the appearance of your skin through several mechanisms. One is through the inhibition of collagenase, which is an enzyme that breaks down collagen. By preventing collagen degradation, the skin may appears more firm, and lines/wrinkles may be diminished.
Retinyl palmitate has also been studied for its ability to initiate the increase of epidermal proliferation, which means it may help to support skin growth. The skin normally takes about 28 days from the first formation of a cell until that cell naturally sheds off. Retinyl palmitate has been suggested to speed up this process to 14 to 16 days. This effect has been linked with a thicker skin and improvement in the appearance of fullness in the skin.
Additionally, retinoids exfoliate the skin by supporting the natural shedding of the skin. The uppermost layers of the skin are typically composed of 14 layers of densely packed dead skin cells. These dead skin cells form the protective barrier that prevents moisture loss, bacteria overgrowth, and damage. However, in some people, shedding this layer may help to improve pigmentation and reduce the frequency of blemishes. The use of topical retinyl palmitate helps to slough off some of these surface layers.
The combination of rapid regeneration of cells and exfoliation may help to improve the appearance of aging skin and reduce the appearance of dark spots and blemishes. Over time these actions may improve the appearance of acne, soften the skin, lift dark spots and reduce the visibility of wrinkles.
Retinyl palmitate functions as an antioxidant to limit oxidative damage caused by free radicals.
Retinoids are often used to reduce the appearance of hyperpigmentation. They work by speeding up the skin’s natural shedding process, removing the pigmented skin from the surface. They also may work to influence the molecules that are responsible for pigment in the skin, melanocytes, allowing for regular arrangement of pigment in the skin.
Retinoids are widely used to reduce the signs of aging on the skin. While the aging processes of the skin are highly complex and depend on genetic and environmental factors, retinyl palmitate and its retinoid counterparts have been shown to help reduce fine lines and wrinkles as well as improve skin texture and laxity.
Niacinamide (Vitamin B3)
Niacinamide is one of those ingredients that stands out for the benefits it can provide to the skin. Niacinamide is a form of vitamin B3 or niacin that may help to improve the appearance of pigmentation and aging, can increase the antioxidant capacity of the skin, and may be involved in maintaining the skin barrier.
Studies have suggested that niacinamide penetrates deeply into the skin. Research has indicated that NAD levels in the skin are increased after the topical use of niacinamide. Acting as an antioxidant, niacinamide has been studied for the potential benefits in reducing the appearance of aging processes and helping to balance oil production.
It is important to also keep in mind that while a healthy diet containing vitamin B3 through foods such as eggs, cereals, green vegetables and fish, to get the full benefits of niacinamide on the skin, it is best used topically.
Antioxidant
Niacinamide has been found to increase the antioxidant capacity of the skin. Antioxidants work by rebalancing the levels of free radicals in the skin. Free radicals are the by-product of normal processes in the body, such as oxidative stress. However, when there is an imbalance in the levels of free radicals in the body, they can cause damage to the cells. This damage has been linked with signs of aging.
Skin barrier function
Research into the effects of niacinamide has suggested that niacinamide may be involved in the function of the skin barrier. The skin barrier is the top layer of the skin that helps to prevent water loss and acts as a barrier to allergens and bacteria. In the review article published in The Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, it was suggested that niacinamide increases the synthesis of ceramides as well as lipids that are involved in the structural and functional integrity of the skin barrier.
It was also suggested that niacinamide might be involved in the differentiation of keratinocyte cells. Keratinocyte cells are a type of skin cell that can have specialised functions; their function is determined by a process called differentiation. When treated with niacinamide there was an increase in the levels of ceramide and differentiation of keratinocytes. These results were also accompanied by reduced moisturize loss from the surface of the skin. Skin barrier integrity has been associated with reducing the appearance of redness and blotching. While this was only two studies, it is interesting to try and understand the mechanisms by which niacinamide may be working to improve the appearance of the skin.
Yellowing of the skin
Yellowing of the skin can be a symptom of aging and is thought to result from the Maillard reaction. The Maillard reaction is an oxidative reaction between proteins and sugars that results in cross-linked sugar. These cross-linked sugars are yellowish and brown in color, giving your skin that yellow hue as we age. In the review article published in The Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, they looked at a study that used niacinamide to increase the levels of the antioxidants NAD and NADPH to help inhibit the Maillard reaction.
Wrinkles
Research has suggested that niacinamide might be involved in the collagen synthesis pathways as well as required in the production of proteins such as keratin, filaggrin, and involucrin, which are found in the skin. Keratin is involved in the structure of the cell and water binding, Filllagrin is involved in skin hydration, and involucrin seems to be involved in the structure of the deeper layers of the skin. Evidence suggests that niacinamide may help to increase the output of these molecules. However, bear in mind that this was only the results of one study, and one study does not make results accurate, but it is interesting to see where the research may lead.
Pigmentation
Niacinamide may be able to help reduce the appearance of pigmentation. The proposed way this may work is that niacinamide may lower the ability of melanosomes to transfer from one cell type to another.
Congested skin
In the study published by The Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, it was suggested that topical niacinamide might help reduce the appearance of inflammation and redness associated with breakouts and inflammatory skin conditions. As well as to potentially rebalance oil production.
Provitamin (Vitamin B5)
Panthenol (Vitamin B5) is a common ingredient that is found in a number of hair and skin products because of its ability to attract moisture and build healthier skin and hair. Panthenol is a provitamin of B5 which means that the body will convert it into vitamin B5. Panthenol is a great ingredient for moisturizers, shampoos and conditions as it binds and holds water in the skin. Hydrated skin helps to improve the plumpness and visible elasticity of the skin.
Panthenol is a common ingredient that is found in a number of hair and skin products because of its ability to attract moisture and build healthier skin and hair. Panthenol is a provitamin of B5 which means that the body will convert it into vitamin B5. Panthenol is a great ingredient for moisturizers, shampoos and conditions as it binds and holds water in the skin. Hydrated skin helps to improve the plumpness and visible elasticity of the skin.
FOLIC ACID
Folic acid (folic acid vitamin), otherwise known as vitamin B9, plays a vital role in helping to maintain the skin’s natural beauty. It possesses concentrations of antioxidants that work to reduce levels of oxidative stress in the skin as well as neutralize harmful free-radicals that are present in the environment. Folic acid skin care properties may also provide increased hydration by bolstering skin-barrier function. This can improve moisture-retention and alleviate skin dryness. In skincare, folic acid products most commonly include moisturizing lotions and creams, which when topically applied may help to enhance the skin’s overall quality and appearance.
Improved firmness
One scientific study found that applying folic acid can boost collagen metabolism and increase skin firmness, combatting ageing.
Reduced sun damage
Topically applied folic acid has been shown to reduce some sun damage’s visual indicators, including reducing DNA damage to affected skin, improving firmness, and reducing wrinkle severity.
L-ascorbic acid (Vitamin C)
L-ascorbic acid is a powerhouse ingredient that can help to improve the appearance of your skin in many ways, making it a great product to bring into any skincare regime. Studies discussed in the Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology have outlined the benefits of topical vitamin C treatments. 1 Their research found evidence that topical vitamin C can help diminish the visibility of pigmentation, is involved in the collagen production process, may be involved in inflammation, reduce the sun’s effects on the skin, and maintain skin barrier integrity.
Environmental factors such as radiation from the sun, UVA and UVB, pollution, smoking, and diet can put your skin in a state of oxidative stress. Oxidative stress produces an imbalance in the levels of molecules called free radicals.6 This imbalance may lead to damage of cells and tissues within the body. Free radicals, also called reactive oxygen species or ROS, are a natural by-product of the body’s chemical processes. Think of them as your body’s waste. Free radicals can accumulate and create an imbalance. This imbalance has been studied for its links with many diseases and its role in the aging process.6 As an antioxidant, vitamin C is thought to reduce the effects of oxidative stress by neutralizing the free radical molecules and rebalancing their levels in your body.
When your skin is exposed to UV light, it can produce free radicals as part of a process called oxidative stress. Free radicals are involved in a cascade of events that may reduce the amount of collagen your body produces, increase cellular damage, and may cause harm to the DNA within the cell. The effects of free radicals on the skin result in the production of the appearance of deep wrinkles, pigmentation, and loss of elasticity.1 These changes in appearance also tend to be associated with the natural decrease in collagen production and sun damage as we age.
As an antioxidant, Vitamin C neutralizes the free radicals formed by exposure to the sun, giving vitamin C protective and restorative qualities against sun damage. Sunscreens remain the most effective way of reducing the effects of sun exposure. Still, studies have shown that vitamin C can enhance the protective abilities of sunscreens and help fight some of the visible pigmentation associated with sun damage.
Sun damage
Evidence from several studies displayed the protective properties of vitamin C against the sun’s harmful effects. These studies suggest that vitamin C and another antioxidant, vitamin E, heighten the protective abilities against the sun in sunscreen formulations. Dermatologists might recommend using a vitamin C serum containing vitamin E before a sunscreen to harness vitamin C’s ability to neutralize or rebalance the free radicals in the skin.
Vitamin C also helps to replenish vitamin E levels in the skin. Vitamin E is another antioxidant like vitamin C, has been studied for its involvement in immune function, maintaining skin health and its abilities in supporting the skin to protect itself from UV damage.
Collagen
As we age, collagen production decreases. From age 20, the amount of collagen you produce reduces by 1% per year. As a molecule, L-ascorbic acid has been studied for its role in pathways that produce collagen in the body. Collagen forms crosslinked fibers in the deeper layers of the skin; this crosslinking creates a net-like structure. It is thought that collagen may be what provides your skin with structure, think firmness or elasticity.
Vitamin C acts as a cofactor or a helper molecule in the body’s natural collagen forming process. L-ascorbic acid has been studied to help crosslinking and stabilize the collagen fibers. Vitamin C has also been investigated for its involvement in the production of a molecule called procollagen mRNA. This molecule signals the production of collagen and is responsible for signaling to the cell that collagen is needed. While several studies support vitamin C’s involvement in the processes that produce collagen, research is ongoing as to whether skincare products containing vitamin C have significant effects in improving visible firmness and elasticity of the skin. As the skin is the last organ to receive dietary vitamin C, topical L-ascorbic acid products such as powders and serums may be beneficial to improve the appearance of the skin. A study of vitamin C in skincare identified that topical L-ascorbic acid products increased L-ascorbic acid levels in the skin.5 The study also found that vitamin C products could improve the appearance of the skin at any age.
Pigmentation
Pigmentation occurs on the surface of the skin for a multitude of internal and external reasons. These can range from pregnancy or melasma, hormonal imbalance, and sun damage to genetic predispositions, injury, or inflammation. Melanin is the molecule responsible for giving your skin color or pigment—The uneven production of melanin results in pigmentation areas on the surface. Vitamin C works to reduce the visibility of pigmentation through inhibition of the enzyme responsible for producing melanin in the skin. By inhibiting the irregular production of melanin, vitamin C, at the right concentration and pH, can help minimize pigmentation’s appearance. Dermatologists might recommend concentrated vitamin C products alongside retinol and laser for pigmentation. Using vitamin C to reduce the appearance of pigmentation can take time and depend on your product’s strength and frequency. It is crucial to use sunscreen alongside vitamin C products to avoid further pigmentation from the sun.
Inflammation
Inflammation in the skin is common. However, some people have to deal with inflamed skin daily. Conditions such as acne, psoriasis, rosacea, and eczema may cause the skin to be chronically inflamed. Vitamin C or L-ascorbic acid is currently being studied for its role in the inflammation process.
Vitamin C is thought to inhibit a molecule that activates pro-inflammatory cytokines. Cytokines are involved in immunity and help produce the inflammation reaction in the body to heal – think of healthy wound healing. In conditions where the skin is chronically inflamed, the cytokines react inappropriately, often working in overdrive. This can result in chronic inflammation. Currently, topical vitamin C products are being examined for how it is involved in inflammation, wound healing, and post-inflammatory linked pigmentation.
Skin barrier integrity
The integrity of the skin barrier is essential for maintaining healthy, clear skin. The skin barrier includes the outermost layers of your skin. It is responsible for protecting the skin’s deeper layers from damage, allergens, bacteria, and moisture loss. When issues with the skin barrier occur, it may suggest conditions such as atopic dermatitis and eczema.
Vitamin C has been used in combination with other skincare ingredients and dermatological therapies to treat conditions that affect the skin barrier. Vitamin C is thought to maintain the skin barrier by enhancing the ability of a type of cell, keratinocyte, to specialize its function in the cell.
Concentration
Concentration is another critical element when considering which L-ascorbic acid products would best suit your needs. Brands will advertise a high level of vitamin C in their product, such as brands that have 100% L-ascorbic acid in their product names. While it may seem appealing to have concentrated products, concentrations of L-ascorbic acid above 20% can irritate your skin. High levels of L-ascorbic acid can sensitize the skin, so always check what concentration of L-ascorbic acid is in the product. Most dermatological studies have found that a range between 8-20% produces the best results with limited irritation.
The study conducted by Duke University Medical Center found that the concentrations of L-ascorbic acid above 20% do not have increased skin benefits.3 The study determined that conversely, higher levels can negatively impact the skin’s condition. Sensitive skin types should use vitamin C products in the lower part of the range.
Ɑ-Tocopherol (Vitamin E)
Vitamin E is used to help protect the skin’s natural barrier, help retain the skin’s moisture, heal and provide the skin with antioxidant properties.
Tocopherol is included in a wide variety of skincare products, primarily as alpha-tocopherol, due to its powerful antioxidant activity.
Since tocopherols are fat-soluble, they are incorporated into cell membranes in order to protect from oxidative damage. This is important because free radicals contribute to signs of aging, such as fine lines, wrinkles, sagging skin, and age spots.
The antioxidant activity of tocopherol or vitamin E can actually become more powerful when combined with ascorbic acid or vitamin C. For this reason, vitamins C and E are referred to as ‘network antioxidants.’ A publication in the journal Dermatologic Therapy explains, ‘because vitamin C regenerates oxidized vitamin E, the combination in a cosmeceutical formulation is synergistic – particularly in UV protection.’
Sun damage
According to a 2016 publication in Dermatology News by Dr. Leslie Baumann, MD, ‘significant evidence has been amassed to suggest that topically applied vitamin E confers photoprotective activity against erythema, edema, sunburn cell formation, and other indicators of acute UV-induced damage as well as responses to chronic UVA and UVB exposure, including skin wrinkling and skin cancer.’
Research has suggested that vitamin E may have protective abilities against the harmful effects of UV rays. The mechanism of action is similar to that of vitamin C, acting as an antioxidant to reduce the effects of free radicals produced by exposure to the sun.
Research suggests that vitamin C enhances UVA protection, whereas vitamin E is more effective against UVB radiation. Therefore, when these antioxidants are combined there is strengthened UVA/UVB protection when worn under sunscreen.
Additionally, alpha-tocopherol may protect the skin from responses to chronic UVA and UVB exposure, such as wrinkles and skin cancer.
This is why you will often find vitamin E in sunscreen formulations. It is important to note that vitamin E is not, by itself a sunscreen and shouldn’t be used as such.
Skin Barrier
Vitamin E helps to maintain the skin’s natural barrier. The barrier consists of the uppermost layers of the skin and the oils, amino acids, ceramides, and fatty acids. The barrier, as its name suggests protects the skin from allergens, bacteria and prevents transepidermal water loss or TEWL.
TEWL occurs when water from the skin is lost to the environment, it is particularly common in dry environments or in aging skin. The lipophilic or oil-loving nature of vitamin E helps to replenish the skin’s natural oils and aids in maintaining this natural barrier.
Another function of vitamin E is to help the skin retain moisture by strengthening the skin’s natural barrier function. When tocopherol is delivered to your skin through the oil glands, it may help to improve your skin’s water-binding capacity and hydrates the top layers of the skin. It is also considered an effective ingredient for providing skin protection and supporting the treatment of eczema.
Zinc [zinc oxide]
In today’s medicine, zinc oxide is generally used to address skin damage, like burns or scars, irritation, SPF, wound healing and may even act as a protective layer on the skin to lock moisture in, while keeping pathogens out.
When carefully formulated with other ingredients for healthy skin, zinc oxide can soothe skin and protect it from irritants.
When carefully formulated with other ingredients for healthy skin, zinc oxide can soothe skin and protect it from irritants.
Sun protection
Zinc oxide is a main component to natural or reef friendly sun protection products. It reflects UV rays from the skin and provides a barrier between the skin and the sun. This protective barrier also helps to prevent moisture loss or transepidermal water loss. Transepidermal water loss or TEWL occurs when moisture from the skin is lost to the environment, causing the skin to appear dull and lacklustre. Zinc oxide is an inert compound meaning that it doesn’t irritate the skin making it a great alternative to chemical sunscreens particularly for sensitive skin or children.
Antibacterial
Zinc oxide also has antibacterial properties which helps to protect the skin from bacteria and helps to keep the products stable. This also means that fewer preservatives are needed to keep the product from spoiling or getting contaminated through use. The added benefit to the antibacterial properties is that it may help to reduce secondary infections in acneic skin that occur when blemishes cause open wounds. The antibacterial properties make it a common ingredient in antiseptic ointments.
Acne
Zinc oxide is often formulated into products designed for acne treatments. This is due to its antibacterial properties but also its ability to support wound healing and reduce visible irritation and redness. Zinc oxide is often recommended as a dietary supplement to support other acne treatments. This is due to the potential for zinc to act as an enzyme cofactor or helper molecule in the process of DNA repair and collagen synthesis. However it is important to remember that this research is still ongoing and doesn’t indicate a therapeutic result.
Moisture
As zinc oxide creates a protective barrier on the surface of the skin it can also help to keep the skin hydrated and moisturized. This is because it prevents TEWL or water loss from the skin to the environment. This is especially important as we age as the skin’s natural ability to regulate moisture decreases.
Irritation
Due to its ability to soothe skin irritation, zinc oxide is often used for its ability to calm and soothe irritated or reactive skin.
Anti-aging
Zinc oxide may also have benefits for anti-aging. As mentioned, it helps to prevent water loss from the skin, which is important to aging skin. As we age, the skin slowly reduces the natural oils that it produces, reducing the skin’s ability to trap moisture in the skin. The protective abilities of zinc oxide help to keep that moisture in. The other way that zinc oxide may help with aging is through zinc’s potential ability to act as an enzyme cofactor or helper molecule in the process of DNA repair and collagen synthesis. While this property of zinc is not fully explored in the research it is an interesting potential benefit.
Caffeine
Caffeine is being increasingly used in cosmetics and skincare products due to its ability to penetrate the skin barrier, providing benefits such as reducing the visible signs of aging, improving circulation, and act as a source of antioxidants.
The functions of caffeine in skincare and beauty products are based on the ability of caffeine to scavenge free radicals, improve circulation, protect skin from sun damage, and stimulate hair growth.
Antioxidant
Caffeine has some antioxidant properties. Antioxidants work by neurtalizing free radicals. Free radicals are produced when the skin is exposed to UV rays, pollution and can be affected by diet, smoking and alcohol.
Free radicals are highly reactive molecules that can attack important cellular components, such as DNA, cell membranes, proteins, etc., which leads to signs of aging.
Stimulant
Caffeine, as you will know is a natural stimulant. As a natural stimulant, caffeine causes vasoconstriction or constriction of the blood vessels, when applied to the skin.
This function aids in reducing the amount of blood that accumulates under the eyes which is considered to be a major factor that contributes to dark circles.
Additionally, vasoconstriction can firm the skin due to the removal of excess fluids and possible stimulation of the lymphatic drainage system. Thus, eye creams that contain caffeine are thought to help reduce dark circles and puffiness.
Cellulite
Caffeine is often used as an active compound in anti-cellulite products because it prevents excessive accumulation of fat in cells.
As dermatologist Julie Russak, M.D., explains to Women’s Health, ‘Caffeine dehydrates the fat cells and stimulates circulation, therefore making the skin appear tighter and smoother.’ However, she notes that these effects are temporary and shouldn’t be relied on as long-term solutions.
UV Damage
Clinical studies have suggested the caffeine may help to protect cells against damage caused by UV radiation and slow down the process of photoaging skin.
Studies on mice exposed to radiation examined the effects of topical caffeine application. Results from these studies revealed that caffeine has a sunscreen effect on the skin of mice and also inhibited UVB-induced skin carcinogens. While this is interesting research it is important to note that mice studies aren’t always transferable to human skin. There aren’t any systemic human studies on this topic yet.
However, some studies have put forward a potential explanation suggesting that caffeine may help block the protein ATR, therefore protecting skin against UV damage and, ultimately, reducing the risk of skin cancer.
Penetration Enhancer
Additionally, caffeine may help other ingredients to penetrate deeper into the follicle. This allows key ingredients to be absorbed better when applied.
Linoleic acid
Research has also demonstrated that linoleic acid possesses anti-inflammatory, acne reductive, skin-lightening, and moisture retentive properties when applied topically on the skin.
Linoleic acid is a natural component of the skin’s lipid barrier, along with ceramides, cholesterol, and other fatty acids. Without these essential lipids, the barrier is weakened. A weak or damaged barrier allows harmful things like allergens, bacteria, and irritants to pass through into the deeper layers of skin, which causes symptoms of dryness, itching, and irritation. Ultimately, this can lead to the formation of skin conditions such as acne, eczema, sensitive skin, and even signs of aging. Topical application of linoleic acid helps to replenish this barrier, which softens and soothes the skin. Therefore, linoleic acid can be classified as an emollient.
Linoleic acid has been extensively researched for its anti-inflammatory properties. The majority of studies examined the effects of topical linoleic acid on inflammation during the wound healing process. For example, one study described that topical application of a solution containing 1.6 grams of essential fatty acid (mainly linoleic acid) prevented pressure ulcers in hospitalized patients. This improvement was related to better hydration and elasticity.
Linoleic acid also imparts anti-inflammatory properties through conversion to arachidonic acid, which leads to prostaglandin E2 (PGE2), possibly via peroxisome proliferative-activated receptor-a (PPAR-a) activation. PGE2 suppresses T cell receptor signaling and may play a role in resolution of inflammation. PPAR-a activation also enhances keratinocyte proliferation and lipid synthesis. This in turn enhances skin barrier repair.
There is also research that suggests linoleic acid may possess acne reductive properties. It has been hypothesized that a relative decrease in linoleic acid in the sebum (the skin’s natural oil) could contribute to the formation of acne. A study published in Clinical and Experimental Dermatology evaluated the effects of topically applied linoleic acid on the size of microcomedones in patients with mild acne. After a one month treatment period, there was a significant effect of topically applied linoleic acid on the size of microcomedones, an almost 25% reduction in their overall size.
Linoleic acid has also been studied for its skin-lightening effects. Studies have found that linoleic can lighten dark spots on the skin due to suppression of melanin production by active melanocytes. Melanocytes are cells within the epidermis that produce melanin, the pigment that gives our skin color. Excessive melanin production, caused by factors such as UV exposure, inflammatory conditions, acne, and injuries to the skin, can lead to uneven skin tone and dark spots. Thus, by inhibiting melanin production, linoleic acid helps to lighten skin and even out the skin tone.
